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Jul 10 2024 Post Icon

How Marmite was invented, by a German chemist and a Burton brewery

By: Seamus Waldron Published: 10 July 2024
How Marmite was invented, by a German chemist and a Burton brewery

The German chemist

Justus von Liebig was one of the most important nineteenth-century chemists, a founder of modern organic chemistry, the namesake of the Liebig condenser still found in every undergraduate lab, and a serial inventor of food products. Among his many side projects, he developed methods for extracting useful things from food industry by-products that nobody else thought were useful.

In the 1870s, von Liebig turned his attention to spent brewers’ yeast. Brewing produces large quantities of yeast as a by-product. By the late nineteenth century the global brewing industry was generating millions of tonnes of it a year, and the standard disposal method was, essentially, “tip it out the back”. Von Liebig worked out that the yeast, if processed correctly, could be autolysed (let its own enzymes break the cells apart) and the resulting liquid concentrated into a thick, dark, salty, B-vitamin-rich paste.

The paste was nutritious. It was preservation-friendly. It was made from a waste product, so the raw material cost was effectively zero. And it tasted, in his own assessment, like a very intense piece of savoury seasoning.

What von Liebig did not do was turn his discovery into a commercial product. He published the methodology, the paste was a curiosity in the food-science literature, and that was that for two decades.

The Burton bit

In 1902, a group of British businessmen looked at von Liebig’s published process, looked at the colossal volumes of spent yeast being thrown away by the breweries of Burton-on-Trent (then the centre of the British brewing industry), and concluded that there was a real product in here.

They set up the Marmite Food Company in a disused malt house next to the breweries, refined the von Liebig process, added a seasoning blend (the closely-guarded recipe of vegetable extracts and spices that gives Marmite its specific character, as distinct from generic yeast extract), and started selling the result in small earthenware pots.

The pots, originally, gave the product its name. “Marmite” is the French word for the kind of covered cooking pot the spread was sold in (see the story of the French marmite pot for the etymology). The pots gave way to glass jars in the 1920s. The Burton factory is still on the same site, more than a hundred and twenty years later (see the Burton factory today).

Why this is a good origin story

Three things make it satisfying.

First, it is genuinely a piece of waste turned into a delicacy. Spent brewers’ yeast was, before von Liebig and the Burton company, literally garbage. After them, it was breakfast. That is an unusually clean example of industrial up-cycling, decades before “up-cycling” was a fashionable word.

Second, it is a quiet collaboration between German chemistry and British food manufacturing. Von Liebig did the science. The Burton company did the product. Neither party was trying to invent Marmite specifically. The two pieces fitted together because the right people noticed.

Third, the origin tells you something honest about the product. Marmite is not a luxury food and was not conceived as one. It is a clever, nutritionally dense, low-cost spread made from brewery by-products by people who knew what they were doing. The fact that it has survived for a century and a quarter, and been added to the national breakfast table by millions of people, is a kind of vindication of the original commercial bet.

The Hate Party occasionally cite the origin (spent yeast, brewery waste) as evidence that Marmite is fundamentally unappealing. The Hate Party should consider that bread is, structurally, also a fermentation product made from raw materials nobody could eat on their own (raw flour, raw yeast, raw salt water). The conversion of unappealing raw materials into delicious finished products is, more or less, what cooking is.

Sources: Wikipedia on Justus von Liebig and on Marmite history; the Marmite Museum.


Tags: marmitehistoryinventionbrewersyeastburtonontrent
Categories: Origins & Invention (1902-1920)

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